Why Is My Whirlpool Ice maker Not Making Ice? [SOLVED] – Let’s Fix It

It’s not too early to start thinking about summer again. So if you find your Whirlpool Ice maker not making ice, it’s time for some quick troubleshooting before it gets too hot. Make sure the ice maker is turned on and then check the water supply. Check the filters, hoses, and even the door switch. And remember to adjust your settings.

Your Whirlpool fridge’s ice maker isn’t working. It may seem confusing, but our guide will have you making ice in no time. Just follow these easy steps.

1. Ice Maker Is OFF

For most models, the ice maker is turned ON with a small switch on the ice maker itself. It may have been turned OFF by mistake. Check to make sure the switch is in the ON position. If you still have problems getting ice or water, please keep reading below.

2. Check Whirlpool Ice Maker Shut-Off Arm

It’s normal for a Whirlpool refrigerator to have an ice maker with a switch. The switch is used to stop the ice maker from making ice once the bin is full. When the arm is in the down position, the ice maker will continue to work as normal. But if the ice in the bin has stopped the arm from going down, the ice maker will not continue to make ice.

To avoid an icemaker shutdown, ensure the shut-off arm is down. If the arm gets pushed up, it will stay there and stop the icemaker cycle. If you push the arm up accidentally, put it back down so the icemaker can run normally.

3. Check Water Supply

The ice maker, the water dispenser, and even the fridge’s water supply pipe use the same water. It’s possible that there’s not enough water for any of them. Inside the refrigerator is where splits happen. The waterline supplying the Whirlpool ice maker might be clogged or kinked.

4. Faulty Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is a key part of your ice maker. If this valve doesn’t work, the dispenser and ice maker won’t function. The water inlet valve requires at least 20 psi to function. If it’s defective, or if the pressure isn’t enough, the water won’t be able to flow through. As a result, the ice maker won’t function properly.

All right, this may get a little complicated. Check the water pressure at the valve first. If it’s not enough, you’ll need to use a multimeter to check for power to the water inlet valve. If there’s power and enough pressure, but the ice maker still won’t fill with water, replace the water inlet valve.

5. Freezer Temperature Issue

You need to keep your freezer in a specific temperature range for ice production. For example, it should be between 0-5°F. If the freezer is too cold, the ice will clump together and jam the ice maker. You need to keep your freezer in a specific temperature range for good ice production. If the freezer is too cold, the ice will clump together and jam the ice maker.

If your freezer is too warm, the ice won’t freeze as well. Refrigerators need to stay cool to stay working. By cleaning the coils – the metal allergens that often accumulate and restrict air flow – you can help your refrigerator maintain its temperature and ensure that your freezer and refrigerator work well.

6. Jammed Ice Maker

Why won’t my refrigerator ice maker work? Recently, ice jams have been the most common reason for a refrigerator’s ice maker to stop working. This can happen when the metal fingers of the ejector’s arm try to grab new ice that is not yet fully frozen. The frozen water then forms an ice bridge that blocks new cubes from falling into the Whirlpool ice bin.

This method may sound a little too easy, but it’s actually quite effective.  If the ejector arm is frozen with ice, use a plastic utensil such as a butter knife to chip away at the ice bridge. The only things you should try are plastic because metal has the tendency to damage ice makers.

7. Faulty Water Filter

When there is a problem with the fridge filter, without enough water flowing to the ice maker, the production of ice will be halted or severely diminished. Make sure that water filter is not clogged and is currently installed as per manufacturer insutructions.

Here’s how to tell if you need to change your water filter: Is it half as heavy as it used to be? Have you noticed a lot of sediment at the bottom of the filter? If so, you need to replace it right away. More subtle indicators are a filter that’s clogged or damaged. So, every 6 months take a look and see if something needs to be changed. But, if there’s any kind of problem, replace it ASAP.

8. Water Supply Line Issue

When your water supply line isn’t connected to your refrigerator, the water may not flow to the dispenser. This means you won’t be able to get any water or ice. The fridge’s water shutoff valve is closed, which prevents the water from flowing to the door. Make sure that valve is open before you start connecting the water supply line. Once you’re done, turn on the water at the tap and check that the line fills with water.

The water is on and the ice maker is not making any ice. Is the water line clear? Check for any bends or kinks in the lines. Straightening them out if you find any will help to avoid leaks. If the water line is damaged, it should be replaced to continue maintaining a leak-free environment.

9. Icemaker Mold Thermostat

The icemaker module is equipped with an ice ejector which turns the drum to release ice when the temperature in the icemaker tray reaches about 15 degrees Fahrenheit. The module sends power to the water inlet valve when it’s time to fill the drum again.

If your icemaker module is defective, you won’t be able to make or dispense ice. To fix it, first make sure that your on/off switch is on or your bail arm is down. If there are ejector blades inside the module, make sure there aren’t any ice cubes stuck in them. It can be hard to diagnose a problem with the icemaker module without having test points, so you might need to call a technician.

10. Defective Door Switch

The ice and water dispenser in your fridge will turn off automatically when the door is open. When the door switch is broken, it doesn’t have continuity and there’s no way to tell until you do a test with a multimeter. If the door switch tests negative for continuity, you’ll need to replace it.